Down the Baltic Coast

The day started off with a bit of maintenance and to prove it, here is a shot of Tim with the tool kit outside the hotel in Umea. We were tempted to get the maintenance guide out but we thought we could remember what George (MKS technician) had taught us, Anyway, we managed well over 300 miles today and the wheel didn't fall off.

So far, by the way, I think we have done 3352 since leaving home!!

On the way south, we saw a sign for the Skuleskagen National Park which is a world heritage site. The high land here is still rising 8mm a year and there are spectacular views...apparently. We thought if we entered from the north we could drive through it, see stuff, and exit in the south. Good plan but to no avail. The "road" through the park was a walking trail and the nearest "stuff "was 5km in. I don't do walking and certainly not in bike gear. We did a u turn and rode back along the gravel entrance trail which was fun at least on our little Transalps.

We had a quick coffee and chatted to some Swedish bikers hold told us about a trip to an island nearby but we had no time to check that out. We headed south and stopped in a super quiet holiday area. So quiet, nothing was open so I snapped a few pics and we rode back to the main road for a hot dog in the petrol station. Here we found a poster advertising the area which incorporated three pictures and incredibly, one of them was virtually the same as a pic I had taken 20 minutes earlier. It was a lovely spot and for a few quid, I will tell you where it is!! Ha ha

So we ate our hot dogs then hit the road to Galva. The road is the E4 which runs down to Stockholm and beyond. We rode along this road from Stockholm southwards a few years ago when we "did" the Baltic countries and came home this way.

We pressed on and reach Galva in time to find a hotel and catch the semi final of the world cup. In fact we fell really lucky. The Scandic hotel is fine; we have armchairs in front a huge screen; we have table service for steak and beer; apple pie is next ; and Holland just scored a stunning opener!  It's a good life!
 So good that I will down load one more pic for you - it's somebody's holiday home on a island. Not bad eh?!! Cheers

Mossies, rain, beach and sun

Woke up in our little hut in Finland near Pello, made coffee and then dashed to the bike and got going as quickly as possible. The mossies are terrible in these parts and we both got savaged by our little friends despite using repellent.

The picture shows our hut. Note that it was a semi! We only had half the hut and this was the delux version. Camping is such fun!

We headed off knowing that the Arctic Circle crossing was about 30 miles from here and figured we'd get breakfast there. We did....and mercifully, the cafe seemed to be mossie free so we had some respite!

We bought stickers for the bikes (of course) including ones that promoted the mosquitos. I kid you not! Apparently it's a big joke in these parts that the tourists are food for the mossies!

The picture is at the Finnish Arctic Circle Centre  and it has a white line runing right through the car park. We parked up still just to the north for a last few minutes in the Arctic. My natty headgear is an attempt to avoid getting bitten whilst posing! Tricky! Anyway, we carried on and crossed the border from Finland to Sweden and headed across country hoping to find more interesting roads.

We stopped in Pitea for lunch and had a short walk around the town. We "lunched" in a nice restaurant enjoying "Pagan Feast" which ironically was Pasta Carbonara. Not sure the Italians would like being called pagans! It had rained hard for about two hours so we were pretty soggy and used the posh lunch stop as a chance to dry out.

We headed south on the E4 but it is pretty dull so we pulled off and went down to a seaside place and enjoyed icecream by the Baltic. The sun came out and all was good with the world. The pic below is Tim - post ice cream - enjoying the Baltic on a floating pier. I declined to enjoy due to sea sickness!!

It seemed a detour was called for so we left the main highway and hit out across country, to some extent following our noses. We fell lucky. Apart from it being a better road for biking, we rode past a little lake in the glorious sunshine with two stunning females in tiny bikinis standing at the side of the road.  (Sorry Sal - even a blind biker would have noticed them!) What they were doing, I have no idea but as we were well behind schedule, we pressed on. (Sorry Neil - didn't get a picture)

Aftter winding our way across country we found Umea and a decent hotel No mossies tonight. So far we have done 2995 miles from home and we still have a long way to go. Hope the tyres last!!!!

Onwards through Finland

Last night we stayed up and saw the midnight soon in Alta. In fact, Sally popped next door to an Esso garage which was selling hot dogs and  we had a midnight feast whilst watching the sun in the north. I took this pic from the car park behind our hotel in Alta. It was exactly midnight.

 Today, Sunday, we dropped Sal off at Alta airport (she is flying home) and then pointed our bikes southwards heading across country and leaving the fantastic E6 behind. What a road! Now we headed due south up the "93" in what was a nice ravine for a few miles. It soon reaches the top and we set off on what turned out to be the most boring road in Europe. Mile after mile of pretty much straight road edged by trees so zero scenery. If you doing the Nordkapp, don't do this route (Alta - Pello)

The highlight of the road was crossing the border to Finland from Norway. The last time we entered Finland with bikes we had to produce all paper work and the police even matched our log books with numbers on the bikes! This time - nothing. Didn't even see anybody. There were two "channels" to choose between depending on whether you had some something to declare. But neither were manned. Odd really! Bit of a disappointment really but made for some nice pictures anyway.

After a mile or two, the sky grew dark and there were rainstorms to the east and the west. We hoped we would ride between them but just as we reached a crossroads, the rain started. We stopped in a cafe and experienced Finnish catering in a petrol station. After Norway, it seemed much more basic and was certainly cheaper - Euros of course. Anyway, the price of a coffee and sandwich gave us shelter from the rain and luckily after 40 minutes it stopped so we pressed on. Even after the exciting of a junction, the road was still straight and boring.

We got  bit tired (too many miles and late nights) so we resolved to stop at the first cafe we came to it. It seemed ok and we had a coffee and a sticky bun. To freshen up we strolled down to the nearby river which was very nice. Reindeer were on the opposite bank and fish were jumping in the river. The boats are used for fishing. Apparently, you cast a line or two then row upstream against the strong current which means you will float downstream and then you use the engine to get back upstream - if you follow me. I am no fisherman but we had it all explained to us. It was then that I noticed the pump........and we had just had a coffee! I hope he boiled the water!

We finally reached Pello where we had decided to stay the night but for some strange reason related to the need to have strange adventures, we decided to head for a camp site. We rented a hut (delux with inside loo) and all seemed well until the mossies started biting. I think they sensed "new" blood and could even bite through socks. We withdrew to the camp's common "hut" and had beer and pizza. The operator gave us a thing to plug into a socket in the hut and said it would kill all the bugs in 20 mins. We'll see. I haven't got a picture yet of the hut or the site and I am sorry but I am not venturing back outside until I have to. THEY are out there waiting for us..........

Unexpected Hammerfest

Leaving Honningsvag this morning after another good night in the pub. Got chatting to a giant of man who had had a few vodkas and claimed to be the strongest man in town. I didn't doubt at all. However, he did show me a picture of his poodle and before the end of the football his wife was unhappy with him and dragged him home! Ha ha.

So this morning, we headed south and decided rather spontaneously to divert to Hammerfest and see the polar bear centre. It was worth it. See this picture with my helmet....big man-eating chaps these are!

At a coffee stop today, I got chatting to guy who had just missed hitting the cafe with his car! He explained that he had lost an eye recently and still had trouble judging distances.( You can't make this up!) His brain was damaged too and so he tried to do cross words every day to sharpen him up. He was very nice and very friendly but it just under-lined how you have to ride defensively all the time. Incidentally, the previous night in the Nord pub, we got chatting to a guy a shell suit. His English was good although some expressions were rather juicy - if you get my drift. He said he had learnt his English from Hull and Grimsby trawlermen who had called in here regularly in the 70's!

Hammerfest was a pretty cool town after Honningsvag and we strolled around until we found a place to watch the footie. We sat outside in the sunshine even though it was cold and I think the last few days caught up with us. I fell sound asleep for 30 minutes and I think Tim had a nap too.

It didn't help much as I still felt tired. Anyway, we wandered over to the pub which was opening especially for the Argentina v Germany game and as we were pretty much first there we had the pick of the seats - leather Chesterfields in front of the biggest TV you have ever seen! Fantastic. We ordered three pizzas but the chap assured us one was enough unless we hadn't eaten for a month! Boy, was he right. It was enormous and delicous. The three of us couldn't manage it all!! So we watched a great game, sitting in comfort, eating great pizza. (Didn't Germany play well?! Must be favourites now)

Look at the size of the pizza. Its about16 inches across and 0.5 inches thick! No need for dinner tonight!


The picture below is Hammerfest. Nice town. Claims to be the town (city?) which is the furthest north in the world. Quite a claim but presumably true. Certainly at 70 degrees north, its a long way up! The last picture is me outside the Nordkapp centre in Honningsvag posted because I like it! ha ha. Note the obligatory Nordkapp cap and another new friend in the backgound. Those guys are everywhere!. Right, time for a beer. Cheers

Midnight Sun

I am sure you can work out that at midnight the sun is to the north of the Cape. Here's a shot of that.

Last night we had a great time back in the Nord Pub in Honningsvag watching the Ghana play Uruguay. What a game and what a finale! The locals here are very friendly and it seems that can swill a few vodkas!

This morning we are tunring south and heading for Alta again. Its a lovely day with the sunshining but perhaps a little cool. So we have been to the Nordkapp, got the pictures, bought the tee shirts and hats, and now its time to tunr for home. Or maybe not. We have this idea that maybe we should head for the Cape of Good Hope.......it has to be done!
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And Finally....the Nordkapp

Today's the big day. We make it to the North Cape! We decide to have a slow start to day as the weather is a bit grim and we hope it will fair up. We visit the Nordkapp Museum and buy a fw souvenirs - we got tee shirts, hats and yet more stickers!! And then around noon, head north for the final 25 miles.  It's quite a road: narrow and with very steep drops. Don't get it wrong and watch out for kamikazi deliver delivers and tour buses! This picture turned out to be the last road sign before we arrived. Just 13km to go! On arriving we discover its £26 each to get in to the final headland. (Bring plenty of money if you are coming to this part of the world!)

The weather over the last 20 miles was grim, in part I guess because we climbed quite high and were in the clouds. The cape was covered in mist and it was cold when we arrived so we had a cup of coffee and warmed up a bit. We were in no rush. Sally bumped into to somebody working there who she knew! A chap from the pub last night!! Ha ha. It was a funny moment.

After a while the sun came out and a tour bus departed - the way was clear and we had the Globe to ourselves. We go busy with our cameras!! We had made it and we went potty with the camera. Well why not? Not likely to come again and we need plenty of shots. For an hour or so the sun shone and we made the most of it. FANTASTIC!

After a while, we walked east along the headland and found grassy bank for a snooze. In fact we found the ultimate grassy bank: that is a 300 feet drop down to the sea. Quite a bank! We had a little snooze in the sunshine and pondered our location. Getting here had been a dream for quite a while and we had done it. In total it was about 2200 miles from home and we had enjoyed everyone of those miles. REALLY FANTASTIC.

We are heading back to the Nord Pub now to watch the football - I think its Brazil tonight and of course we are now "locals" in the only pub in town!

Cheers readers!!

Alta and north to the wilderness

Leaving Alta ths morning we immediately started to climb and soon found ourselves in the Arctic tundra. We are now passed the tree line, ie trees don't grow this far north. The remoteness is fabulous. What views! We follow the very quiet E6 through fabulous countryside and literally herds of reindeer. Incredibly, round a bend in the absolute middle of nowhere is a cop with a speed camera. Hard luck Sir - we were not  speeding as it happens but were enjoyin the view!

We arrived at a T junction and its left to the Nordkapp and right to the Russian border. Yes, we were tempted but decided to stick to plan A. A few miles later we reached a small town and stop for coffee about 50km from Honningsvag where we are staying the night. We have coffee and a snack but don't buy fuel thinking we have plenty. We aslo buy a few stickers for the bikes including the Sami flag - the indigenous poeple of these parts! The picture is us enjoying our handiwork after putting new stickers on our bikes!! Ha ha

Now it starts to get cold. We are riding next to the Arctic Sea and although its sunny , its perishing cold.  We stopped by the sea for a few minutes because Tim wanted to paddle in a "new" sea. Ugh?

The picture left, is the first sign we see for the Nordkapp. It was in Alta. Good confirmation that the road we are following, the E6, actually goes to the North Cape! Anyway, we are past the wild Tundra area and down to the sea shore now and on the final stretch.

The road twists onwards along the shore line and we are blown by very strong head winds and sideways gusts. Its pretty tricky riding but we take it steady. The tunnels are very tight and dark which add to the adventure ( and the danger frankly). Eventually we reach the toll point - about £8 each to get into the Nordkapp area. I am out of fuel! The warning light has been on for a while. It must have been the very strong head wind but I crawl into town and refuel.

We check in and then go and find something to eat in a little bistro down the street. Its 1600h and very chilly! Strolling around looking for a bar (inevitably) we find one called the Ice Bar. Sounds good. Actually it's a bar made out of ice and is a big warehouse held at minus 5 degrees. Well , we have to go in, right? They even served icy drinks and provided us with warm clothes. No really - they are not our matching ponchos.

Anyway, there is not much to do in Honningsvag - there is only one bar. Its called the Nord Pub and I am in it writing this. It is the home of the area's Liverpool FC supporters' club. Honest - you can't make this up! Too drunk now to see the midmight sun at the Nordkapp so perhaps it will be the midday sun tomorrow.

PS Rachel and Lyn - good morning. Arctic gear test going well. Found a stockist of fur lined, rubber motorcyclist boots in Alta. Shall I get you the number?

PPS Max (from Russia) - if you are reading this, we are in Honningsvag in the Nord Pub tonight and tomorrow (Friday) night  if you fancy a beer and will be at the "Globe" tomorrow around noon. Staying at the Hotel Rica. Cheers.